Burst Pipe Repair
Shut the water off fast, then cut out and replace the cracked or split section.
Look for the main valve where the supply line comes into the house, often in a basement, utility room or crawlspace. Turn a wheel clockwise or a lever a quarter turn to close it.
By the Westminster Plumbing Co. team ·
In a house with a basement, the line often enters through the front wall near the water heater or the furnace. Look for a valve with a round wheel or a lever on a pipe close to the wall. In slab homes it may be in a utility closet or the garage.
There is also a shutoff at the meter, usually in a box near the street. The city owns the meter and its shutoff. Do not use the meter valve unless you must, and ask the utility first.
A gate valve has a round wheel. Turn it clockwise until it stops. A ball valve has a lever. Swing it a quarter turn until the handle crosses the pipe and the flow stops.
Old gate valves seize when they sit for years. Turn yours gently once a year so it does not freeze in place.
The handle tells you which kind you have.
| Valve type | How to close | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Gate valve with a round wheel | Turn clockwise until it stops | Seized stems from age |
| Ball valve with a lever | Quarter turn so the lever crosses the pipe | Loose handles |
| Meter valve in the box | Turn with the proper tool | Belongs to the city, use only if you must |
| Fixture angle stop | Turn clockwise | Corrosion and leaks |
Do not force it with a pipe wrench. The stem can snap and leave you with no way to close the valve. Try small back-and-forth movements, or a little penetrating oil on the stem.
If it still will not move, use the meter valve and call for repair. A plumber can replace a failing main valve.
Sinks and toilets have their own small valves, called angle stops. Turn them clockwise to shut off one fixture without closing the whole house.
Know where yours are, and test them yearly. A stuck fixture valve is a common surprise during a leak.
Open a tap at the lowest point and one upstairs to drain the lines. Turn off the water heater at the breaker or the gas control so it does not run dry.
When you turn the water back on, open the valve slowly and run a tap until air clears from the lines. Check for leaks.
Call if the valve leaks, will not close or has not been tested in years. Replacing a main valve is a short job and it can save a flood.
Tell every adult in the house where the valve is. Label it with a tag.
The person who knows where the main valve is should not be the only one. Show every adult and older child where it sits and which way it turns. Label it with a tag or a bright piece of tape so it is easy to spot in a hurry.
Practice once. Closing the valve takes a few seconds when you have done it before and much longer when you are standing in water and stressed. A dry run now saves time during a real leak.
Open the lowest faucet in the house to drain the remaining water and ease pressure on a leaking pipe. Open a high faucet as well so air can enter and the pipes drain freely. Flush toilets once to empty the tanks.
Turn off the water heater's power or gas if the tank may drain. A heater that runs with no water entering it can overheat or burn out an element. Then call the dispatcher with the location of the leak and what you have already done.
A valve that seizes, leaks at the stem or fails to stop the flow should be replaced. Old gate valves wear out inside, so even a fully closed valve may pass water. A quarter-turn ball valve is more reliable and easier to close in a hurry.
Replacement requires shutting off water at the meter, so it is a job for a plumber. In many cases the contractor can finish the swap in about an hour. Ask whether a second valve can be added at the meter or ahead of the pressure reducer.
While the water is off, it is a good time to fix other items such as a worn pressure reducing valve or a leaking fixture shutoff. Combining the work saves a second visit.
Before you leave for a long trip, close the main valve. A burst hose or a failed fitting while nobody is home can flood a house for days. Shutting the valve costs a few seconds and removes that risk.
Check the area around the valve each fall. Keep it clear of boxes, and look for dampness, rust or mineral stains at the stem. Catching a slow seep early avoids an emergency when you most need the valve to work.
Some homes have a second shutoff at the meter or at the street. Ask the utility which valve belongs to you and which is theirs. Knowing the difference avoids a mistake that could leave the whole street without water.
Usually on the front wall where the line enters, near the water heater or furnace.
Look near the water heater, in the garage and in the crawlspace. If you cannot find it, the meter valve is a last resort.
In an emergency, yes. Ask the utility about its rules, since the meter belongs to the city.
Once a year. Turn it closed and open gently to keep it free.
Shut the water off fast, then cut out and replace the cracked or split section.
Trace a hidden leak behind a wall, under a slab or along the buried line before any wall has to be opened.
Dry and rebuild a home after a pipe leak, a frozen-pipe burst or a sewer backup.
A moving meter, a damp basement wall or a bill that jumped. A handful of quick tests tells you whether you have a leak and roughly where.
Water at the base of the heater is either a loose fitting or a failed tank. A few checks tell you which, and what to shut off first.
A frozen pipe can split the moment it thaws. Here is how to warm it safely, what to check afterward and how to keep it from freezing again.
Close the valve if you can and call. The dispatcher then matches you with a nearby contractor.
Service area centered on Westminster and the nearby Denver north-metro cities.